Ombré Cushion Sew Along Part Two: Piecing the Cushion Front

Welcome to part two of our Ombré Cushion Cover Sew Along. This is where the fun really begins.

By now you will have selected your fabric, so let's just jump straight in. Many of these tips can be used with almost any quilt piecing or sewing project.

Keeping your strips in order
One of the biggest issues with this cushion cover is keeping the eleven strips in order. I won't tell you how many times I've managed to sew the wrong pieces together. Here are two suggestions for keeping your order (and sanity):

As you will see, this is a terribly sophisticated, technologically advanced system...but it's worth every penny. Number the strips. You don't need anything fancy for this. Paper, pen and a pin or clip.  This is a great idea to keep rows together when piecing a quilt too.

Sophisticated Ordering System - Number Your Strips

You can also simply place a pin/clip on the bottom edge of the first strip. You know if you see the pin then you're sewing on the wrong side. This isn't quite as foolproof as the idea above, but it does take less time.

Add a pin/clip to the bottom of strip 1

Sewing long strips
People often have issues with fabric puckering when sewing long strips together. Here are few tips to help prevent this:

• Cut the strips to the same length. This way, you know exactly where each should start and end so you're less inclined to overstretch one of the strips.

• Pin the strips. Yes, it takes a little longer, but it's worth it. I start with a pin in the center to show the halfway mark, then again at the center of each half (to make a quarter) and so on depending on the length of the strip. I still prefer minimal pins, but if you like to use a lot then go right ahead.

• Alternate the end in which you start sewing. For example, start sewing strips one and two from the beginning. When you add strip three, turn the unit around and start sewing from the end. I've not actually tried this technique, but people swear by it.

Making the 'big cut' on a smaller mat or with scissors
You will find that some of the units you need to cut are quite long. They may even be longer than your ruler or cutting mat. The best way to deal with is is to simply draw a line to follow before cutting. Then you can place the unit on your cutting mat, cut as far along as you can, stop and drag the unit down so the next section is on the cutting mat, then cut again until you're finished. Of course, you could do this with scissors, or without drawing the line first too. It's really up to you and the technique you're comfortable with.

Trimming the unit
I mentioned this in part one of the sew along, but it's worth discussing again. There is not a lot of margin for error when trimming your final unit so please don't start slicing off edges until you're sure of where to cut.

See the red lines in the image below? That's the 14 1/2'' trimming space. As you can see, there's not a lot of fabric before you reach the triangles.

Trimming space

You will trim on, or very close, to the triangles. It's OK if it's not exactly 14 1/2''. Just try and be as close as possible.

Trim close to the triangles 

This concludes part two of the sew along. Hopefully you will have as much fun making this cushion as I do.

Remember to include your gorgeous creation to be in the running for a $20 gift voucher from The Oz Material Girls. The details can be found here: Ombré Cushion Cover Sew Along.

Thanks again. I'm really looking forward to seeing your creations in our Facebook Group and on Instagram, using the hashtag #sewtodaypattern.

Ombré Cushion Sew Along Part One: Selecting Your Fabric

Welcome to part one of our Ombré Cushion Cover Sew Along.  If you haven't already done so, now is a good time to download your free PDF pattern and visit the tutorial.

Trying to coordinate eleven strips of fabric may seem little daunting, but selecting fabric for your ombré cushion doesn't need to be a headache. I find that, due to the way the diamonds are positioned, the fabric still blends nicely even if they aren't perfectly coordinated. You'll see what I mean further down.

Here are some tips for choosing the right fabric:

• Jelly roll strips are a great start. They're already cut to 2 1/2'' and generally come in a coordinated range.

• If you have a specific piece of fabric you'd like to use and know the designer, have a look at what other fabrics came in that range. You may not necessarily choose those fabrics, but they will give you a good idea as to which colours and designs may suit.

• Pay close attention to any patterns on the fabric. While the cushion is pieced as whole strips, in reality you are still cutting 2 1/2'' squares.  What might look great as a fat quarter may not work as a 2 1/2'' square.  For example, you have a gorgeous white fabric with big orange swirls that are the perfect shade for finishing your orange layer. You start piecing only to discover that when cut, they've turned into 2 1/2'' white squares.

• It's certainly not impossible to approach this cushion with directional fabric or fussy cutting, but take care. It's easy to get turned around. I would suggest making a simple one first and, once you're comfortable with the technique, tackle something a bit more fancy pants.

• The top and bottom strips will be cut in half and fall along the edges of the cushion, so they won't be seen as much as the centre pieces. It is less important that they coordinate.

• I find that taking a photo of my selection of strips and viewing it through my camera/phone helps give me a better idea of how they will look and the order in which to place them.

Design Suggestions

I've called this the Ombré Cushion Cover because that's that design I like to use, but it doesn't have to be that way.  Here are a few suggestions for you to consider:

Classic Ombré 

Classic ombré design

Ombré Variation
I've never actually made this version, but I think it would look awesome. Either with a light centre, as shown here, or with a dark centre moving out to light. You would only need to find six coordinating fabrics for this version.

Ombré variation

Chevron

You could even try a non-ombré version. This chevron design was made using two strips of each fabric. I used 12 strips instead of 11 to ensure the colours were centred.

Chevron design

Director's Cut

When writing a pattern there is a fine line between too much and too little information. This means that sometimes tips we would like to include have been removed to improve the overall flow of the pattern. These are some of those tips:

• When the time comes to trim the Cushion Front to a 14 1/2'' square, you will notice that there is very little room for error at the top and bottom of the unit. In fact, you only really have enough room to slice off the triangles and nothing more (though being a squishy cushion cover, it's not a huge deal if you trim slightly smaller than the suggested 14 1/2''). If you are concerned that you may not sew accurately enough to have such a small margin of error, you may like to add a twelfth strip. It will be almost completely unused but may give you piece of mind.  If you choose to add a twelfth strip, I would suggest just repeating either your top or bottom fabric rather than trying to find another coordinating fabric that largely won't be seen.

• The 16'' length gives you a little breathing space for cutting mishaps, but not a huge amount. Only about an inch. You may want to cut the strips a little longer depending on your skill with the rotary cutter.

• Sewing long strips is not always as easy as it seems and can often end up in stretched or distorted fabric.  Cutting the strips to the same length and pinning before sewing can help reduce these issues.

Hopefully this will help you in selecting your fabric and preparing for the really fun part of piecing the cushion front.

Remember to share you fabric choices in our Facebook Group and on Instagram using the hashtag #sewtodaypattern.

Ombré Cushion Cover Tutorial

If you've been following me for a while you'll know how much I love this cushion cover. You may even recognise it from the now retired Quilted Cushion Cover Tutorial I wrote quite some time ago. I decided it was time to release this great pattern as a free PDF, so I took the opportunity and jazzed up the tutorial too.

The free PDF pattern can be found here: Ombré Cushion Cover Free PDF Pattern

This tutorial and free PDF pattern are made possible due to the sponsorship of the fabulous team over at The Oz Material Girls.

You will need:

• Eleven 2 ½’’ x 16'' coordinating strips of fabric for the Cushion Front. Strips from a jelly roll are great for this project.
• Two 14 ½’’ x 10 ½’’ rectangles for the Cushion Back.
• Size 14 cushion (36cm x 36cm).
• (Optional) Batting, approximately 16'' x 16''.
• (Optional) Scrap fabric for quilting the Cushion Front, slightly larger than the batting. This will end up on the inside of the cushion so it doesn't need to be anything fancy.

Step One – Piecing the Cushion Front
Use a ¼’’ seam allowance unless otherwise stated.

Decide on the order in which you would like the strips to appear on the Cushion Front. E.g. darkest to lightest. I find taking a photo and viewing it through my camera phone can really help when making decisions with fabric.

With right sides together, sew the eleven 2 ½’’ x 16’’ strips, in order, along the long edge. Pinning the strips prior to sewing can help prevent them stretching.

Note: I recommend using a smaller than normal stitch length to help keep the stitches in place when you sub-cut them later. There is no need to backstitch at the start or end of the strips.

Sew the strips in order

Press each seam in alternating directions. E.g. press seam one up, seam two down, seam three up etc.

I apologise for the different fabric in the next two images. My original photos were not clear enough and it seemed like a waste to redo the entire tutorial for the sake of two photos.

Press the seams in alternating directions.

Trim one edge to square up the unit. 

Note: Aligning the horizontal lines of your ruler with the seam lines will help with keeping the cut straight.

Trim the edge, using the seamlines as a guide

Flip the unit so that the trimmed edge is to the left (this may be reversed if you’re left-handed). Sub-cut into six 2 ½’’ strips. Again, align the horizontal lines of your ruler with the seam lines.

Sub-cut 2 1/2'' strips using the seamlines as a guide

Six 2 1/2'' strips

Take two strips and stagger them so that the first seam of one strip is in line with the second seam of the next strip. 

Note: This image is simply to show the staggering of the strips. You will sew them with right sides together and raw edges aligned.

Stagger the strips

Make sure the seams are aligned. They should nest together neatly due to them being pressed in opposite directions.

Seams nesting neatly

Pin the strips together at the seams to helps keep them in place. I usually only pin the first one or two seams, but you may be more comfortable pinning them all.

Keeping the raw edges aligned and seams nested together, sew the strips together. Press the seam in any direction.

Sew the first two strips, keeping the seam aligned.

Continue in this manner until all six strips are joined, remembering to stagger the seams each time.

Continue until all six strips are sewn

Lay the unit on your cutting mat and ensure it is sitting flat. Cut through the strip diagonally as shown in the images below.

Note: Try and keep the cut as neat as possible, going through the intersection of each seam. The first and last squares will be slightly off due to the seam allowance. Don’t panic if things don’t line up perfectly. Just be as accurate as you can.

Cut through the diagonal

Diagonal cut made

Switch the two pieces around so that the cut edges are now on the outside.

Switch the pieces

Sew the two pieces together, staggering the seams as you did previously.

Sew the strips, staggering the seams

Cushion Front panel complete

Trim the unit to approximately 14 ½’’ x 14 ½’’. I’m not too particular about where I trim, i.e. I don’t aim for dead centre of a square or anything like that.

Note: If you are quilting your Cushion Front you may choose to not trim until after the quilting is complete.

Trimmed Cushion Front

Step Two – Quilt the Cushion Front (Optional)
This step is entirely optional but looks fantastic and can add interesting texture to your cushion.

Baste your Cushion Front to the batting and scrap backing fabric. You can use whatever method suits you. Pins, curved safety pins etc. I like to use basting spray. It keeps everything in place and means I can avoid pins (they're not my friend).

Baste the layers

Quilt the cushion front in your preferred method. I have used a walking foot to quilt lines 1/4'' from each side of the seams.

Quilting on the front

How awesome is the back??

If you haven’t already done so, trim off the excess batting and scrap fabric, keeping the front at approximately 14 ½’’ x 14 ½’’.

Quilted and trimmed

Step Three – Create an Envelope Closure and Finish the Cushion
Take the two 14 ½’’ x 10 ½’’ Cushion Back rectangles.

On each piece separately, fold one long edge down 1/2'', press and then down another 1/2'' and press again.

Fold the long edge 1/2'' then 1/2'' again

Sew the hem in place.

Sew the hem in place

Take the Cushion Front and lay it right side up.

Lay Cushion Front right side up

Take one Cushion Back piece and lay it on top of the Cushion Front, right side down and with the hem in the centre.

First Cushion Back piece in place

Lay the second Cushion Back piece right side down and in the opposite direction to the first.

Second Cushion Back piece in place

Pin and sew around all four edges, using a 1/4'' to 1/2'' seam allowance. 

Note: I like a snug fit so use a 1/2'' seam allowance, making the cushion cover slightly smaller than the cushion size. If you have quilted your cover, or are worried about the cushion not fitting, use a 1/4'' seam allowance.

If desired, finish the seams with an overlocker or zigzag stitch.

Turn the cushion right side out and...

Swoon

...you have a beautiful ombré cushion.

I would love to see your finished cushions so be sure to share your creations on my Facebook Page or on Instagram using the hashtag #sewtodaypattern.

Visit the following pages for more hints and tips on creating your Ombré Cushion Cover.

Join me here tomorrow when I announce the exciting Ombré Cushion Sew Along and Competition sponsored by the fabulous...

Pinwheel Cushion Pattern

Remember the Pinwheel Block Tutorial I released last week for the Blockalogue? I just couldn't get enough of them and ended up whipping up this funky cushion.

Funky Pinwheel Cushion of Awesomeness

Pretty cool, right? I thought you'd say that, so I also whipped up this Free PDF Pattern: Pinwheel Cushion Pattern.

The pattern includes detailed instructions and diagrams for piecing the front of the cushion...

Look how great these diagrams are

...and for inserting the zip closure.

I was a bit proud of my zip

There's even a sneaky little peek at an exciting big announcement I will be making next week. Shhhh....you'll have to download the pattern to find out.

PINWHEEL CUSHION PATTERN FREE PDF DOWNLOAD

Enjoy!!!

But It's Free? How Copying Free Patterns Hurts the Designer (and You)

We all know that it's wrong to copy paid patterns, right? Most of us also realise that it's also wrong to copy patterns from magazines, but what about free patterns? Surely it's OK to copy those and hand them out? It's not like anybody is getting paid for it.

I'm here to give you a different perspective. No, I'm not going to rap you over the knuckles and tell you how naughty you are. I would just like to give you a few points to think about next time you're hitting that photocopy button.

I write free patterns and tutorials for a few reasons:

• To give people the opportunity to learn new skills without fear of 'wasting money';
• To thank you for your continual support of my blog and Facebook page;
• To give you a taster of my writing skills, making you feel more comfortable about purchasing my patterns in the future:
• To increase my exposure.

Sure, my patterns have my details on them so even a photocopy will direct people to my page. The problem is, I don't see the numbers. What is 10,000 downloads could very well be 15,000, 20,000, 100,000 for all that I know. People with copies may not be seeing my other patterns, tutorials, ramblings on my blog (and nobody wants to miss those!).

"How is this my problem?" I hear you ask. Without your support and assistance, designers will be unable to continue to provide free patterns and tutorials. Many of us rely on our freebies for blog views or downloads, which subsequently turn into sponsorship, sales or other opportunities. Without those, the blog will survive for only so long. The blogger too, for that matter. It takes a lot of time and effort to create patterns and tutorials. Design, images/diagrams, writing, testing, advertising. This doesn't even include monetary costs such as materials, computer software, blog costs etc. Without some form of compensation, be it financial or otherwise, freebies simply become 'not worth it'.

I'm here to ask that next time you're about to email a PDF, email the link to the download instead. If you're given a copy of a free PDF, visit the blog/page and download your own version. The added benefit to this is that you know you will also have the absolute latest version of the pattern.

Share this post and spread the word. Support designers so we can continue to support you.